Journeys and Jottings

Issue 69 - Oulu and Pohjola Route, a microcosm of Finland

Hei! I was reading this book on SISU - The Finnish Art of Courage which speaks about resilience, determination, and mental strength and was reminded of my last trip to Finland, where we explored Oulu and the Pohjola Route. While I will get back to my reading

Explore the Pohjola Route in Finland - a mini microcosm of Finland

It was cold as we huddled together in a little clearing on the dark and moist forest floor of the fell, surrounded by towering pines and birches. The darkness slowly enveloped us as the outlines of the trees loomed large. It was well past midnight as we sat there, staring at the jewelled sky even as the night clouds threatened to wrap them in their fold.

We were in the dense Syote National Park, tucked away in Northern Finland on the Pohjola Route, hoping to glimpse the mystical Northern Lights. But just as it seemed like the sky would open to show us the magical lights,  the clouds became a wet blanket. 

 “Well, we are caught in a little tussle between the Shaman and Santa, “ said our guide, Martta Tervonen with a laugh to lighten the mood. The Northern Lights believed to be caused by the dance of the foxes can be quite elusive according to the local Sami people. However, Martta narrated a childhood legend that said that the Shaman would capture the Northern Lights and trap them in a little bottle, whenever he was angry with Santa Claus. “Perhaps it was one of those days,” she sighed. 

We were driving through wetlands, lost in riverine islands and swept away by dunes along the breathtaking Pohjola or the Northern Route, dubbed as the “birthplace” of the Nordic country. Steeped in folklore,  the little capsule of “authentic Finland” is also a winter wonderland with reindeer and husky safaris. Surrounded by 900 km of fells and forests, with over ten pristine destinations along the scenic route in the Bothnian Bay around the fascinating city of Oulu, this is heralded as the new way of exploring Finland.  

The trail takes you to the sandy shores of Kalajoki, the Hailuoto archipelago, the wetlands of Liminka, the UNESCO Rokua Geopark around the Oulujoki Valley, and the fascinating fell of Syote. The hotels are a part of the experience as well, be it the Santa’s Resort and Spa Hotel Sani, the Lapland Hotel at Oulu while the Hotel Iso Syote atop a hillock at Syote is a great destination to even see the Nothern Lights from your rooms. But there is more to do besides just chasing the Northern Lights.  The Finnish sauna is an integral part of the local culture and is a must-do experience during your trip. Here is a list of some of my favourite and recommended experiences in the Pohjola Route  

1. Visit the Maakala Island 

   

   Surrounded by the Gulf of Bothnia, the Maakalla Island looks straight out of legends. It is a boat ride away from the sandy shores of Kalajoki, one of the alluring destinations on the Pohjola and the first on our itinerary. The island which is uninhabited today has been autonomous for the last three centuries and is virtually a time capsule, Wandering around we stopped at a charming 18th-century wooden church, a tower, and a lighthouse beside 40 wooden huts of fishermen who visit during summer. Lose yourself in the wild rugged island off the coast and listen to the folklores narrated by the silent shores here. 

2. Climb the Nallikari Lighthouse

   

   Drive from Oulu to the Nordic Riviera where the seaside resort town awaits you. The sandy beach at Nallikari beckons swimmers and sunbathers during summer, but in winter, it becomes an ethereal sight, turning into sheets of ice as you can walk on the frozen waters, ski, fish or just chase the Northern Lights.  However it is the view from the Nallikari Lighthouse which is mesmerising, be it in summer or winter. Built on the breakwater on the beach's northern end, this towering coastal landmark is highly Instagrammable. Don't forget to take your selfie here. 

3. Say cheers at Hailuoto Island 

   

   Take a ferry from Oulu to the charming archipelago of Hailuoto and lose yourself in a lush fabric of alpine forests surrounded by wetlands that are a haven for birds. While Hailuoto Island is a treat for outdoor enthusiasts, you can experience the scenic landscapes on a coastal walk with charming wooden cabins lining the shores. And if you are feeling a bit adventurous then climb the 19th-century lighthouse at Marjaniemi and listen to the tales of the beacon light. 

But a trip to Hailuoto is not complete if you don't say “Kippis” (cheers) to the first Finnish organic brewery where you can sip local beers brewed here with seasonal ingredients and lose yourself in the flavours.

4. Explore the outdoors at Syote National Park

The mystical fells at Syote National Park are surreal in winter when the verdant landscape turns snow white and the landscape is ethereal. The arctic forests with branches of trees dipped in snow are ideal for the outdoors, be it skiing, or snowboarding. Maybe you can even go pm a husky safari or a sleigh ride.

However, during the rest of the year, the forests welcome you to explore their mysteries. You can go on hikes, bike through the fells, or like me, pick berries in the wilderness and just enjoy dreamy views from my room at the Hotel Iso Syote.

5. Visit a Husky Farm 

   

   Say hello to over a hundred huskies at the most adorable farm where every dog wants to be petted and cuddled. “Husky Mamma Joanna” shares stories of winter escapades as the huskies train throughout the year for the safaris.  Syote Husky Safaris is a must-do experience during winter and it’s the best way to appreciate the magical atmosphere. You can spend a day here and even have a traditional Finnish lunch in a round teepee called Kota.

6. Visit a reindeer farm 

Reindeers or “Paro” as they are called are virtually synonymous with Finland and at the panoramic Panuma Village, you learn more about the herder communities and their reindeer farms. We were greeted by Napsu, the reindeer with his owner Sylvi Oinas, the youngest reindeer herder who told us that most of the herd would gather in winter from the forests and the communities are fiercely protective of their herd.

During winter you can go on a safari as the herders would tell you more about the sacred and protected animals, who are more than just Santa’s ride through the skies. It is believed that Santa chose reindeer for his journey as they are known to bring people traversing a harsh winter safely home.

7. Meet the chubby policeman of Oulu

The Pohjola Route is centered around the fascinating city of Oulu, whose symbol is the Toripollisi or the Chubby Policeman who watches over the Market Square. Oulu is a destination by itself and there are 32 myriad and miniature bronze sculptures in front of the City Hall that tell the story of this ancient town which is now designated as the European Capital of Culture in 2026. Pottering around we visited the towering cathedral and an ancient castle, besides artistic neighbourhoods called Pikisaari, but it was the Chubby Policeman who stole our hearts.  

You can also see my Instagram reel on more experiences on the Pohjola Route

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