Journeys and Jottings

Issue 57 - A Luang Prabang special, Wat Xieng Thong and more temples and a collaboration with wonderful travel writers Marco and Sabrina

Hello from Luang Prabang in Laos. Well, I wish I was there right now. While looking through some of my old travel diaries, I stumbled upon some notes that I had written on Luang Prabang and the little “cards” I had created for Insta posts with these notes. And that made me feel like revisiting Luang Prabang again, at least virtually.

In this issue of Journeys and Jottings, I am sharing my experience of Wat Xieng Thong, one of the oldest and most historic temples in Luang Prabang.

But what is special about this issue is that I am also collaborating with travel writers Marco and Sabrina who will also pen their memories and experiences of Luang Prabang along with a delicious recipe in their newsletter - One Hundred Years of Family Food Memories. I hope you will enjoy this seamless virtual journey and different perspectives on the same destination.

And if you are a travel/food writer and would like to collaborate, I am all ears. Do let me know your interest in the same.

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Wat Xieng Thong

I can feel the Zen the moment I walk through the gates of the ancient city of Luang Prabang in Laos. A sense of timelessness pervades me as I potter around the Old Quarter of this UNESCO Heritage Site known for its Buddhist temples and monasteries, over 30 of them, nestled in this former royal capital of the Lao Kingdom. Luang Prabang, meaning “Royal Buddha Image “ takes its name from the Phra Bang or the Prabang Buddha golden statue nestled inside the Royal Palace Museum. 

My tryst with Luang Prabang begins with the 16th century Wat Xieng Thong built by King Setthatirath in his royal capital to honour the legendary first king of the Luang Prabang, a betel merchant called Chanthaphanith.  

“If you have time for just one temple, then this should be the one, but I would recommend at least five of them,” said my tuk-tuk driver. The Golden Monastery as it's called actually translates to “ Temple of the Golden City.” Located on the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, the historic temple where the royal kings were coronated, was the original gateway to the town and it has its own legends.

I am always fascinated by stories because I believe that these little tales embody the very essence of a local culture. According to the lore,  two hermits identified this site as it had then housed a pair of powerful nagas who were living at the confluence of the rivers. A flame of the forest tree located at the site, depicted now as a mosaic on the shrine was believed to be the origin of the sanctuary, as this was where the hermits had placed the stones that formed the boundary. 

Legends notwithstanding, the temple set amidst verdant gardens has over 20 structures and is shimmering in gold with a sloping double-tiered roof that stands for the typical traditional Lao style of architecture. The Sim, which is the central shrine in any temple complex is the oldest structure here and is characterized by nine sloping roofs, and at the centre are small pagodas embellished in gold. You can also see the Dharma wheels on the ceiling, inlaid in gold.

However, it is the interiors glittering in gold stenciling, depicting Jataka tales, Buddhist iconography, and stories of the legendary ruler, Chanthaphanith that fascinates me.

Walking around the shrine, I see the beautiful mosaic of the legendary flame of the forest tree on the wall behind. 

Besides the Sim, I head to the vibrant Red Chapel with a three-tiered roof, with numerous brackets depicting Nagas and housing a two-metre-long bronze Reclining Buddha sculpture.

Once inside, I feel like I am in the heart of the golden monastery with small golden Buddhas on the walls, and gold stencilwork on the red or black walls. The name for the shrine comes from the red stucco work inlaid with beautiful coloured glass mosaics narrating stories. 

Speaking of mosaics, my favourite is the charming Pink Shrine or “ Hor Tai” referred to as the Scripture Repository, filled with beautiful murals and coloured glass tiles that narrates the local fable of a Laotian hero called Siaw Sawat.

A son of a rich merchant, he was one among the locals of Lao, who rose his way up to become a minister in the royal kingdom. Besides his story, I can see vignettes of locals like fishermen and farmers and depictions of their lives as well. 

There are several other shrines, but there are many other monuments as well like the Funerary Carriage House which preserved the ceremonial relics of the royal family and has panels on its facade depicting the Ramayana as per the Lao tradition. There is also a library, a drum tower, a wooden congregation hall, a chariot hall, a stupa, and a chapel of the Standing Buddha among other structures.

 Besides Wat Xieng Thong, there are several temples in and around Luang Prabang. But if you are running out of time, Head to Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham with its wooden ordination halls, built in traditional architectural style with golden reliefs depicting scenes from Buddha’s life beside Ramayana.

Climb Mt Phousi for gorgeous views of sunsets but there are a few temples here as well. At the summit of this sacred hill, is a golden-topped stupa, That Chomsi while there are temples on the way up the hill -  Wat Pa Huak with 19th-century murals and Wat Siphoutthabat, which enshrines the footprints of Lord Buddha. Also not to be missed is the Royal Palace Temple or the Wat Ho Pha Bang which houses the Pha Bang, the statue of Buddha that gave the city its name. And while you are here, explore the Royal Palace and the museum.

Please note there is an entry fee and a dress code for the temples.

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I do hope that you enjoyed reading this issue. Looking forward to your feedback as always. As mentioned earlier, if you would like to collaborate do drop in a message here. If you are planning a trip to Luang Prabang, I will be happy to help.

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