Journeys and Jottings

Issue 53 - Notes from Kyoto, the Fushimi Inari shrine, the Inari and the kitsune and Word for the day - Ichi go Ichi ae

A few years ago, I was in Kyoto, Japan, and my guide, Toshiaki Ohbayashi, a very young 65-year-old man, taught me a new word - Ichi go Ichi ae. Ikigai, the word and the book was already popular by then and was all over Instagram but this phrase struck a chord with me. I had learnt Japanese ( the basic Level 4 ) a few decades ago when I was still in college and was intrigued by the language and culture.

Words and phrases are an insight into the culture and this phrase, also mentioned in the book, was first introduced to me by my guide. He said that it meant “ this time only “ or possibly “once in a lifetime” or “never a chance again”.

It’s a concept that the Japanese believe in - treasuring moments and meetings with people .“It is probably the last time that I would be seeing you and hence would like to treasure it in a way that one does not forget,” he said. I learnt that the Japanese believe that every meeting could be the first ( or the last) one and hence they treasure it and make it special. “ It is not just meeting strangers, it could be meeting a friend, a neighbour, a colleague, and even your own family. Treasure these moments, “ he said with a bow and a smile as he took leave of us near the Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.

Hello and Welcome to this issue of Journeys and Jottings. My head is still in Kyoto and I want to share some stories and snippets from the historic cultural city. One day I hope I will revisit this Imperial City with its 17 UNESCO Heritage Sites. But today, let me tell you about the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.

“We Japanese may be Buddhists but we also do not really believe in a deity. If there is something we worship, it would be nature. That is why we follow Shintoism - a way of life rather than a religion, “ said my guide as he introduced me to the concept of an Inari shrine, guarded by foxes.

But before we visited the Fushimi Inari shrine, the largest of all Inari shrines apparently, I was introduced to the concept of “ Kami” or the spirits in Shintoism. Apparently, there is no literal translation for the word Kami. They are sacred spirits but they are always evolving and changing. They could represent nature like the Sun, Wind, Mountains, Trees, and Rivers like the Devatas but they can also be spirits of ancestors and emperors or objects and concepts.

There is a Kami for industry and agriculture and there is also a Kami who protects you from diseases. Some say there are almost a million Kamis. They represent and inhabit a place, a concept, an idea, or even an object. Kamis are not always benevolent in nature. These spirits have two minds or souls apparently and they are neither all-powerful nor are they considered perfect. But they will still protect you.

The Sun Goddess who represents the universe -Amaterasu is one of the most powerful Kami and she is believed to have been born to Izenagi and Izanami, the first man and woman. However, our story is about another Kami - Inari Okami, the god of rice and agriculture. Inari is also associated with industry, business, and prosperity. Inari also stands for fertility and is represented both as a god and a goddess. The kitsune or the foxes are the messengers of Inari and have supernatural abilities.

The story goes that a merchant used sticky rice for his target practice. But when the arrow pierced the rice it turned into a bird that flew away into the mountains and then transformed the entire slope with rice fields

There are over 40,000 Inari shrines and Fushimi Inari is the primary among all of them. Sculptures of foxes greet you, holding a key or a jewel. The shrine is also famous for the thousands of tori gates painted in vermillion which have been donated by various merchants.

They are called Senbon Torii and they take you into the woods for a hike into the mystical nature. As you walk through the vermillion Torii gates, you feel like you are going through a surreal orange tunnel. Statues of foxes or kitsune as they are called are everywhere.

The Inari uses kitsune or foxes as their messengers and sometimes takes their form as well. However, these foxes themselves have supernatural powers as well. Hence it is quite popular to don a kitsune mask or a mask of a fox! But beware which mask you pick up as there are different categories from samurai fox to dragon fox and they can be both good and bad depending on the situation.

There are also different types of kitsune and some of them are Inari foxes but there are many who are believed to be dangerous and malevolent. Apparently, there are over 13 categories of kitsune and each of them represents an element in nature too. But kitsune are all tricksters in general and while some of the pranks may be relatively fun, there are many which are not. They are also shapeshifters and can take the form of humans or any other form.

Some say that they turn into priests to fool people or into a beautiful woman to seduce a man. Kitsune is also like a genie and if you feed and take care of them, they will do as per your bidding. In folklore, there are many legends comparing and associating them with the werewolves and vampires and they may even be called “were foxes”. However kitsune are mystical and magical and can help you if you appease them.

I found the entire experience mystical and divine and felt a sense of deja vu when I was there. More stories from Japan coming up in the next issues. Until then..

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