Journeys and Jottings
Issue 52 - Word for the Day, Handloom special, Gopalpur Tussar, Dragons and love stones from Zen temples of Kyoto , Postcard from Arunachal Pradesh and more
Hello August
And this is exactly how I have been feeling with the Bangalore weather making me a bit of a laggard.
I woke up this morning and found myself craving a bed coffee and didn’t feel like getting out of bed. I missed my morning walk but I did my breathing exercises and then curled up again in my bed, with my second cup of coffee, hoping it will wake me up from this stupor.
Less is More. I have realized that this is going to be my only mantra going forward. I have been decluttering and realizing that it’s not just the physical objects that we collect, but it’s the baggage that we carry. And it’s time to get the monkey off your back, whatever you are lugging along with you. For me, it’s all about old patterns and habits that am learning to let go, be it procrastination, imposter symptom, or overthinking.
What’s the monkey on your back that you are letting go of?
Hello and welcome to this issue of Journeys and Jottings. Monsoon is still very much the flavour but am at home this month, writing and completing my assignments. From writing about the US to Australia, Japan to Vietnam, and of course India, I am just being a virtual traveller of late. But I am not complaining. I am also catching up on my reading and also binge watching shows, besides listening to a few podcasts as well and of course creating reels on Instagram :)
Celebrate handloom
National Handloom Day (August 7 ) is around the corner and it’s a way of celebrating Indian handlooms and textiles and the weavers who create magic with their fingers. Recently I have been listening to the Empire Podcast and the hosts - William Darlymple and Anita Anand tell you time and again in almost every episode about the rich textiles and the artistic skills of the weavers who were virtually enslaved by the East India Company.
In fact, almost every European power was here to colonize India as the country was known for its textiles as well as for spices. But sadly as powerloom takes over handloom, most of these weaving towns are fast disappearing. Yet here are some of my favourite weaving hubs and towns and these are by no means, expansive or include everyone.
Kanchipuram
Pochampally
Ilkal
Narayanpet
Maheshwar
Patan
Paithan
Banaras
Gopalpur
Mangalgiri
100 Stories from India - Gopalpur Tussar from Odisha
” Almost every region in Odisha has a village called Gopalpur and we are not even talking about the famous Gopalpur by the Sea. But this Gopalpur in Jajpur District is famous for the Gopalpur tussar, ” says our guide Sumanta Ji as we walk around the idyllic village. The musical strains echo through the dusty lanes of the village. It’s windy as the trees sway to the rhythm, the leaves rustle against each other and the sun is a little kind as I walk past brightly painted homes with murals on the walls. A young woman clad in a bright red saree shyly poses for me with the background of her artwork. This form of painting is called Jhoti Chita and it reminds me of the Kolams from my ancestral state of Tamil Nadu made with a paste mixed with rice and water.
As the lanes get narrower and the houses more traditional, I can hear the characteristic rhythmic sounds of weaving from the looms as we walk into one of the rooms. The echoes get louder as we see rooms filled with weavers who are deftly working on the warp and the weft, magically weaving silken threads together into shimmering tussar silk fabrics. Gopalpur is essentially a village filled with generations of weavers mainly known for weaving tussar silks and Gopalpur tussar even has a Geographical Index (GI) differentiating it from the other Gopalpurs of Odisha.
Every loom makes its own music and tells a story of a weave and a pattern. Blending threads together, creating motifs, and weaving fabrics into colourful and contrasting hues, the weavers are lost in their craft. The sun shines on the lustrous threads through the open windows while I can see a weaver’s face through a yarn of threads as he looks upon his loom with single-minded focus.
Gopalpur is believed to have over 1700 registered weavers and almost everyone here is an artisan. There are local communities and self-help groups like AdiShakti while the marketing and distribution are managed by ORMAS – Odisha Rural Development and Marketing Society as well.
Kennin-ji Temple in Kyoto
One of the oldest Zen temples in Kyoto that dates back to the 13th century (1202), the Kennin-ji temple is located in Gion, the iconic entertainment district (read Geisha and Maiko) in Kyoto. It was believed to be founded by the Buddhist monk Yosai (Eisai) who not only brought Zen to Japan, but also tea from China. In fact, Yosai felt that this would help other monks stay healthy and also awake during the meditation practices. A stone monument in the temple complex even commemorates the import of tea to Japan.
There are several smaller monuments inside the temple complex which are free of charge, but you have to pay a fee to enter the main temple buildings called Hojo and Hatto. This temple is known not just for its beautiful gardens but for its stunning art. In fact, it’s a veritable art gallery.
Right at the beginning, you will see the painted screen depicting the Gods of Wind and Thunder. This is however a replica, as the original is at Kyoto National Museum However the main showstopper is at the ceiling. As you enter the main shrine, look above you and you see a massive painting, drawn with ink that according to my guide “ is the size of 108 tatami mats”. And as you stare at the “Twin Dragon Ceiling” inked by late artist Koizumi Junsaku on traditional Japanese paper. It depicts two dragons entwined together. The mural was commissioned in 2012 for the 800th anniversary of the temple.
Divine help for romance
One of the quaint experiences in Kyoto is testing your love fortune around the Koiuranai-no-ishi or the love stones at the Jishu-Jinja Shrine located behind the Kiyomizu-Dera temple.
The Cupid of Japan is Okuninushi no Mikoto and will help you find love. And all that you need to do is to walk with your eyes closed around a pair of love stones that are set about ten meters apart from each other. And lo, you will find love around the corner if you succeed. Apparently, if you do take someone’s help in navigating your way, you might still be successful in romance but you are going to need some divine help
Every temple or shrine in Kyoto has a unique story. You can also read my story on top things to do in Kyoto in Travel and Leisure Asia.
Postcard from Arunachal Pradesh - A frozen lake beyond Tawang
Feedback
I do hope that you enjoyed reading this issue. Looking forward to your feedback as always. I would particularly like to know if you have any other suggestions regarding the travel content.
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See you soon! You can also read my travel stories on my blog and follow me on my social media.
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We all need days where we curl up in bed sipping tea or a (second) cup of coffee. :) Hurkle-durkling is soul food.