Journeys and Jottings
Virginia is for lovers, a fairy tale house built out of spite, caves and floating markets. But before that, a little bit of literature, writing and does criticism of any kind affect your spirit ?
“Read these leaves in the open air every season of every year of your life, re-examine all you have been told at school or church or in any book, dismiss whatever insults your own soul..” Walt Whitman
I stumbled upon a tweet a few days ago that celebrated Walt Whitman, the American poet and it took me back to my college days when I studied English Literature. Although American Literature was just one of the subjects, I have been inspired by the works of a few poets including Whitman and Robert Frost. I always felt that the poem written by the latter, “ The Road Not Taken” influenced the career choices that I had made in my life. But yes, sometimes I do “sigh” thinking of the roads that I have left behind.
But coming back to Whitman, the essay I read in The Marginalian by Maria Popova talks about how Whitman “kept criticism from shrinking his soul”. As a writer and content creator, I wonder whether criticism in any form hampers our spirits. And more so, when we have an inner critic always nestling inside us. And in the age of Instagram and social media where algorithms and AI take over, I also wonder if instant gratification and validation ( or the lack of it ) affect our work. What do you think and how do you deal with the same?
And on that note, Hello and Welcome to the June edition of Journeys and Jottings. I just got back from a short trip to Virginia USA and spent a few days in Charlottesville, Alexandria, and Fairfax. A whirlwind of a trip I must say.
Virginia for lovers
I personally loved the tagline and assumed that it had a romantic angle to it. However, I was even more fascinated when I learnt that the romantic appeal is more about the love for travel. Virginia is indeed for lovers - be it the breathtaking natural wonders or fascinating spaceships, pretty old towns with charming architecture, or massive homes of former presidents with a troubled history of slavery, colorful immersive art, and delicious wine and food
After a week in Fairfax, Charlottesville, Alexandria, I was completely overwhelmed. I was spaced out in the Space Museum - the Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center , was lost in the sprawling Virginia University, was high on wine in Charlottesville, and was charmed by the Old Town of Alexandria
We visited Monticello and Mount Vernon, the homes of Founding Fathers of the USA - Thomas Jefferson and George Washington as I refreshed my memory of American History and drove along the Blue Ridge Mountains, wandered around the Shenandoah National Park, and lost myself in the recesses of the Luray Caverns. And if I have to pick three highlights of the trip - it has to be the Luray Caverns, the Old Town of Alexandria, and the Air and Space Museum at the Steven F Udvar Hazy Centre.
The smallest house in Old Town Alexandria
The Old Town of Alexandria is so charming and quaint that you are swept away into the 18th century the moment you walk on the brick-lined pavements, exploring the buildings, and the many houses that dot the streets, especially King Street, Queen’s Street and Prince Street. The oldest cobblestone street is Captain’s Row. Laced with stories, the Old Town was founded in 1749 and is the third oldest locally designated historic district in the U.S. Amidst the many lores and legends, spooky ghost stories and fairy tales, nothing is more charming than the tale around the Spite House. It is the smallest house in the Old Town and named so because it was literally built out of spite.
Measuring a little over seven feet wide, the blue facade of the house stands out amidst the many houses on Queen Street. The two-storeyed house was built by one John Hollensbury in 1830 who owned one of the neighbouring houses as he was annoyed that the horse-drawn carriages would stand in front of this tiny alley adjacent to his house. So out of spite, he literally built this house to ensure there was no alley and parking place for the wagons. Even today you can see some of the gouges on the brick walls where the carriages used to hit when they were parked in the alley.
Indeed, every brick in Alexandria has a story to tell, some out of spite of course
You can read more about Alexandria Old Town here .
100 Stories from India
Time Travel 2000 years to the Karla Bhaja Caves from Lonavala
Imagine for a moment that you are a time traveller. It is over 2000 years ago and we are in the 1st century BC. As you climb the steep 350 steps of a hillock in Karle village near Lonavala in Maharashtra, you are suddenly taken into a world where traders traversed through this little hamlet on their way to the ports in the Arabian Sea. The Buddhist monks lived in caves carved in the rocks and they opened their doors to these weary travellers, making their journey from the Deccan. There is a massive chaitya or prayer hall that is 45 meters long and 14 meters high. And there are over 16 rock-cut caves here with stunning sculptures. Welcome to the Buddhist trail of Lonavala. Our destinations are Karla Bhaja Caves near Lonavala which give the hill station its very identity.
The origins of Lonavala, perched in the Sahyadri Mountains or the Western Ghats take you back centuries in time. Hence the name Lonavali, referring to a series or “avali” of “len” or resting places in stone. There are three ancient caves here – Karla Bhaja Caves besides the lesser known Bedse Caves and each of them is a complex of several caves with stupas and monasteries carved inside them. A magic carpet transports you to the first century when mountains were carved into caves that became resting places for Buddhist monks.
Karle or Karla Caves Lonavala is one of the oldest and the chaitya is one of the largest rock-cut prayer halls in India. One of the monasteries here had two pillars towering over fifteen feet. Only one of them however remains today. The famous Ekvira temple, dedicated to the goddess is located here and is worshipped largely by the Koli community
My personal favorite is the Bhaja Caves standing 400 feet above the village of Bhaja near Lonavala. Climbing the 150 steps, I am mesmerized as I see Bhaja or Bhaje Caves built in the 2nd century BC. A carving of a woman dancing and another playing “tabla” catches my attention as I realize that “tabla” as a musical instrument probably existed over 2000 years ago and that the women played it rather adeptly.
The Bhaja Caves is a series of 22 rock-cut caves built between the 2nd century BC and 2nd century AD and the most prominent among them is the chaityagraha which has a vaulted ceiling shaped like a horseshoe and wooden architecture. There are caves with pillared verandahs and fascinating reliefs adorn them. The Buddhists built these rock-cut caves with viharas, stupas, and chaityas as a shelter for travellers and traders. The monks lived here as well.
Taling Chan Floating Market, Bangkok - A photo essay
In Bangkok, markets are not just about shopping deals and bargains but a way of life. They blend with the very fabric of the city and are an integral part of the local flavour and culture. I wanted to spend an entire trip photographing markets but I had to contend with a floating market near Bangkok – Taling Chan Floating Market Bangkok.
Leaving you with a few photos from here.
Feedback, please
I do hope that you enjoyed reading this issue. Looking forward to your feedback as always. I would particularly like to know if you have any other suggestions regarding the travel content.
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Very cool stories. I loved the one on Alexandria, I've been there a couple of times in the past and it brought me some memories! @airplanetalk on twitter.
Congratulations, Lakshmi, on the 50th edition of Journeys and Jottings! Here's wishing You new horizons on your incredible journey ahead!